Albania. Province of Durres. Village of Arapaj. Two farmers seat in a field, watch the road and the vehicles on their way to Durres. Enver Hoxha (1908-1985) was for 40 years a dictator and a communist leader. He decided after the historic break with Russia in 1961 to protect his country from any invaders by investing in a massive fortification (more than a million bunkers were built over the years till 1985). © 2003 Didier Ruef